emma said:
@martin
Dryers don’t use 50 amp circuits, so an electrician will know you’re lying. A more plausible excuse would be an RV hookup.
Yeah, an RV hookup makes more sense and should get you the heavy-duty setup you need. But honestly, hard-wiring the charger is usually better—it saves on copper and avoids the GFCI requirement.
@jeff
Just make sure the RV setup is up to the task. Not all of them are suitable for EV charging. You can find details on which ones work well in this guide.
@jeff
With NACS becoming more common, isn’t hard-wiring a safer bet? I feel like having a plug would make it easier to replace or upgrade the charger later.
Howard said:
@jeff
With NACS becoming more common, isn’t hard-wiring a safer bet? I feel like having a plug would make it easier to replace or upgrade the charger later.
It’s easier, sure, but not much easier. Once the wiring’s done, swapping out the EVSE is pretty straightforward. Plus, adapters exist if you need to change plug types later.
It depends on your local rules. For example, I don’t have a disconnect for my EV charger, but I do have one for my HVAC system.
Kenneth said:
It depends on your local rules. For example, I don’t have a disconnect for my EV charger, but I do have one for my HVAC system.
Your setup sounds typical, but see this comment for a detailed breakdown of what’s required by code.
Kenneth said:
It depends on your local rules. For example, I don’t have a disconnect for my EV charger, but I do have one for my HVAC system.
Where are you located? And how far is your EVSE from some kind of disconnect? You need either a plug or a disconnect within sight of the charger if it’s high enough amperage.
You’ll need to check local code, since the requirements can vary by country, state, and even city.
When I installed my Tesla wall charger, I remember reading that it advised against using a disconnect. Disconnects are generally good for fixed appliances, but they aren’t always necessary for chargers. I installed mine without one and haven’t had any issues.
@Christopher
What? It advised you not to install a disconnect? That doesn’t seem right. You need some way to de-energize the charger, and most breakers aren’t lockable. Just because it worked for you doesn’t mean it’s safe.
@Ronald
What’s the code reference for ‘a method for it to be lockable open’?
Disconnects are common in industrial settings where lock-out/tag-out is required, but they aren’t typically needed for residential EV chargers. Sounds like your electrician might be used to working on bigger projects.
@sorphia
Right. But once you get above 60 amps, you do need either a disconnect or a lockout device on the breaker.
When I had my setup inspected, the inspector mentioned that a disconnect was required within sight of the charger. However, since I had a 200-amp subpanel in the garage, they let it slide. The subpanel was close enough for the inspector to allow it.
In your case, your electrician may be right about needing a disconnect. Sometimes they’ll also use the disconnect to switch from aluminum to copper wiring to save costs. My setup uses aluminum to the subpanel and copper from the subpanel to the charger, which saved us a lot of money.
@MAKENA
It sounds like the inspector might have misunderstood the code. Check this comment for the actual code language on disconnects.
A 60 amp EVSE needs to be hardwired since there aren’t 60 amp receptacles. Depending on the setup, it might be cheaper to hardwire anyway, especially since 50 amp receptacles require expensive GFCI breakers.